IN BETWEEN DAYS

The Autumn/Winter 17 collections are here– some just seen on the catwalk – and Resort 17 will be in-store soon; it’s always summer, somewhere. Do seasons matter anymore? These London-based designers are managing the shifting ideas around creativity, timing and availability their own way. 
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Winter Wish List

Shoes from Phio Myo, designed by Creative Director Laure Wolff and made by a small, family-owned factory in Italy… A piece from Moon Lee Artwear, designer Injoo Lee’s art-led label… A hat from milliner Karen Henriksen: try the Windswept cap in sea-green tweed… A merino dress from International Woolmark Prize for Womenswear winners Teatum Jones… A visit to Warp & Weft boutique in Hasting’s Old Town for vintage, and new, clothes and accessories… Silver rings from master jeweller Lauren Squires.

Resort 2017 at The Hoxton, London 

New label Helter creates a collection every two months, available for immediate purchase. Designers Jeraldine Ng and Willis Tan met at LASALLE and now manage the label between its London base and Singapore. Their current collection focuses on framing and highlighting one area of the body: the nape of the neck, with a square cut-out at the back of a slim jacket, or the hipbone, through a carefully-placed slash on an otherwise straightforward skirt. They care about the details that if ignored can let down an otherwise beautifully designed piece of clothing – for example, finding the right zip-tail. Their second collection, inspired by winter seascapes, includes pieces in autumnal khakis and muted charcoals.

With clients based all over the world, Huishan Zhang has always had to think about designs not restricted to a particular season, and this is evident in a resort collection of modern, luxurious separates and dresses. Fabrics are developed in-house, including a modern techno-lace. Sequin, pearl, thread embroidery and ostrich feathers give an opulent edge to the collection. Details matter here, too: a black dress includes a gathered trim that references the shape of the yuanbao, an ingot currency used in imperial China.

Preen Line’s ‘rock ‘n roll meets Nashville’ collection matches floral tea dresses, pale pink knits and black and white stripes, inspired by the New York Dolls and Patsy Cline’s country music cool. Turquoise works perfectly with leopard print separates. It’s an effortless compilation to be worn anytime, anywhere.

Shrimps presents an exuberant mix of designer Hannah Weiland’s faux fur coats, jackets and knitwear, alongside clothing, including a great jumpsuit. Instantly covetable are cropped leopard-print jackets with jewelled collars, and accessories featuring Hannah’s whimsical illustrations: a riot of flower garlands, girls, unicorns and crowns.

Three Floor’s collection of delicate dresses features lace and sheer fabrics, pleats and ruffles. Three Floor’s designs always have beautiful necklines, and Resort includes a soft sash neckline, and new square shape. Also new this season is the label’s first tailored jacket, ‘Cristobel’, in a modern lace pattern, while new colour ‘rose dawn’, a romantic beige-pink, is a perfect trans-seasonal shade.

Edeline Lee presents the Bubble Jacquard Collection, her response to the runway-to-retail debate. Available year-round, the collection, made in England using Italian jacquard, sees the designer using the textured fabric to create new pieces and re-interpret her classic shapes, like the Man Ray dress. A timely idea, the fabric is available in ten new colours for right now: black, ivory, grey, jade, aqua, sky, fluo, saffron, coral and rose. Boutiques stocking the range can pick their own colours.

Menswear designer Astrid Andersen shows her first women’s collection for Resort. For Astrid, sportswear is not a trend; it’s a way of dressing that reflects a modern, global and egalitarian point of view. Women have been wearing the Astrid Andersen menswear pieces and the new luxe women’s sportswear has a feminine edge that doesn’t compromise the label’s athletic appeal.

Holly Fulton’s first resort collection gives a nod to the 70s, with Holly’s hand-drawn illustrations manipulated and printed onto separates, including her popular shirting, and sweatshirts. Laser-cut plywood jewellery looks substantial but is as light as a feather to wear, and big, pale-wood earrings are coolly glamorous. Hollow, geometric wooden bangles can be worn alone for a simple, Scandinavian look, or over other jewellery – to be seen glittering beneath.

Images: Huishan Zhang Resort 2017 (images courtesy of Huishan Zhang) 

Clare Carlin is a London-based writer.