New Season Now

Clare Carlin

NEW SEASON NOW

It’s go for spring in London as the new collections arrive in-store and online, alongside a preview of what’s next on the fashion week catwalks.

Spring Shopping 

Make your new-season wish list in an elegant notebook from MARK + FOLD @markandfold Meet Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s stylish sibling Preen Line @preenline Look out for Lizzie Walker’s (former womenswear buyer at Start Boutique) label Knit Nurse London @knitnurselondon Make art deco magic with a Lily Kamper pendant from @trove_storeEmbrace effortless chic with pieces from Uncivilised @weareuncivilised Find hand-painted silks, cotton twills and Irish linen in the S/S16 collection from new Irish label We Are Islanders @weareislanders With tops notes of Lemon and Earl Grey tea, and a heart of fig, cardamon and jasmine, As If, the new fragrance from Liaison de Parfum, Nana de Bary’s evocative line, is your perfect summer scent @liaisondeparfum Discover Martina Spetlova’s hand-cut, hand-woven leather designs @martinaspetlova

London Fashion Week – Autumn/Winter 16/17

London was once again the place where established fashion houses met hot new talent. The NEWGEN initiative, sponsored by Topshop, supported eight emerging designers who also happen to be some of the most talked-about of the season: Danielle Romeril, Claire Barrow, Ryan Lo, Ashley Williams, Marta Jakubowski, Faustine Steinmetz, Sadie Williams and Molly Goddard, plus ‘one to watch’ Roberta Einer. And Alexander McQueen, NEWGEN alumnus, came home with their first show in London for over 15 years. See more online at London Fashion Week and highlights below…

In Metamorphosis, Manuel Facchini’s presentation, op art met feminine geometry in a collection of strong, sculptural looks. Details reigned with textured fabrics, cutouts, eyelets and zips. A black and white palette, with accents of purple and red, was matched with gothic-dark eye makeup.

Paul Costelloe’s modern-day female warriors wore the best coats at fashion week. The military-style tailoring in warm-hued checks and painted herringbone led a dramatic and wearable collection, perfectly complemented by slouchy leather and suede bags.

Myriad references combined for a unified look at Danielle Romeril. Shirts and jackets were cut at the elbow, with the cut repeated across trousers and skirts – giving the impression the wearer could alter their clothes in seconds, ready for anything. Embroidery with hanging threads was reminiscent of deconstructed regalia: the sense was that the modern girl acknowledges history with her look but makes fashion work for how she lives now.

Polar met Belstaff’s traditional moto look in the Polar Pioneer collection. Edith ‘Jackie’ Ronne was the inspiration: the first woman, in 1947, to visit Antarctica as a working member of an expedition. This adventurous spirit was embodied in a great black moto leather jumpsuit, and a gorgeous and undoubtedly warm patchwork bomber jacket. As part of the new season Belstaff and Liv Tyler created a capsule collection inspired by Amelia Earhart: the film Falling Up, starring Liv Tyler, brings to life the daring Belstaff woman.

A futuristic landscape dotted with mountains of shredded paper lent a surreal feel to Edeline Lee’s measured presentation. Loose dresses and separates in wool crepe, featuring pockets with contrast piping in black and ivory, were beautifully simple. Floral embroidery gave a whimsical edge to an ivory top and deep v-necked dress. The occasional piece in true red or green lurex added glamour.

The body-switching antics of Freaky Friday inspired the autumn/winter steventai collection. Wearing corduroy separates in a range of perfect autumnal tones: lavender, navy, beige and olive, and quilted white silk, notably in a long embroidered jacket – a wearable duvet – his ‘grannies’ were the most sophisticated old-souls ever.

80 emerging fashion designers from 24 countries exhibited in the West Wing of Somerset House as part of the British Fashion Council’s annual International Fashion Showcase. The theme for 2016 was Fashion Utopias, which followed Somerset House’s celebration this year of the 500th anniversary of Thomas More’s Utopia. The exquisite neckpieces by HO Piezas Unicas stood out: HO Piezas Unicas is a Guatemalan brand inspired by local arts, crafts and landscapes, designed by sisters Maria Jose and Maribel Orellana.

Clare_Carlin-2 copyLondon based Editor: writer and journalist Clare Carlin has worked for a diverse range of publications and media producers in Australia, Europe and the UK.